Fort Sumter and USS Yorktown

Posted on July 13, 2023 by kcbernick

Monday, June 26, 2023

Patriots Point in Charleston is about a two hour drive from Myrtle Beach. From here, we caught a ferry to Fort Sumter, well known as the place where the American Civil War began. South Carolina had seceded from the United States on December 20, 1860. They issued a Declaration stating, among other things, that the northern states had elected a President whose “opinions and purposes are hostile to slavery.” They believed the Federal government had violated its Constitutional compact, the primary violation being the failure of 14 northern states to enforce the Federal Fugitive Slave Act.

Nearby Fort Moultrie was garrisoned by two companies of men (85), commanded by Major Robert Anderson. After South Carolina seceded, and believing that Fort Moultrie was indefensible, Anderson secretly transferred the men and command to Fort Sumter. At this point, the state demanded that the US government evacuate Fort Sumter. The US refused, and tried to send a relief expedition in January. That ship was turned back as it tried to enter the harbor.

When President Lincoln took office in March, he said that the government would not attack, but neither would it accept a division of the nation. In early April, Lincoln informed South Carolina that an attempt would be made to supply the fort. One week later, CSA Brigadier General Pierre Beauregard demanded that Anderson surrender Fort Sumter. After Anderson refused, the Confederates opened fire on the fort. The fort suffered quite a bit of damage, and was surrendered the next day, April 12. No one was killed in this first battle of the war. Anderson and his troops left the fort on April 14.

The Union set up a blockade of Confederate ports to try to prevent the export of cotton and the smuggling of war materiel into the Confederacy. With Fort Sumter in Confederate hands, the south was frequently able to get around this blockade. The Union attempted to recapture the fort in September, 1863. The fort suffered significant damage, but the Confederates managed to fend the Union off. They continued to hold the fort until the Confederates evacuated as General William T Sherman marched north from Savannah in February, 1865.

Our 30-minute ferry ride took us past Castle Pinckney, on Schutes Folly Island. Castle Pinckney was a small fortification that was used for a time as a Prisoner of War camp during the Civil War. It had been surrendered to South Carolina shortly after they seceded.

A Park Ranger talked about what it was like on the days leading up to the attack on Fort Sumter, as well as the battle and surrender. He tried to give us a sense of what those soldiers were experiencing. None of them expected to be involved in battle when they were sent to Fort Moultrie. History was happening to them. They probably didn’t expect to play a part in this opening volley of a major war.

By the end of the Civil War, Fort Sumter was in ruins. The US Army worked to restore it, and for about 30 years, it was used simply as a lighthouse station. A massive reinforced concrete blockhouse-style installation was built in 1898 inside the original walls, and named “Battery Huger.” The battery was deactivated in 1947, and in 1948 the fort was named a National Monument. Battery Huger now holds a museum and gift shop.

We also toured the USS Yorktown, docked at Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant. This aircraft carrier was built during World War II, and was named after a former USS Yorktown was sunk at the Battle of Midway. The Yorktown participated in several campaigns during WWII, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War, and she served as a recovery ship for the 1968 Apollo 8 space mission, before being decommissioned in 1970. She appeared in two movies: “Tora, Tora, Tora,” about the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, and a scifi film “The Philadelphia Experiment.”

PS: I forgot to mention another lovely restaurant in an earlier post: Toscana Italian Restaurant, another restaurant that we went to twice, the second time with friends. Another reasonably priced restaurant, Toscana also has great service and the fried calamari was delicious! No wonder I gained 5 pounds in two weeks!

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Myrtle Beach Attractions

Posted on July 12, 2023 by kcbernick

Billed as a Legendary Gift Shop, the Gay Dolphin Gift Cove has been operating since the 1940s. Founders Justin and Eloise Plyler were an entrepreneurial couple who owned a golf course, several motels, a reptile show, a monkey exhibit, an aquarium, a rifle range and an amusement park. The original Gay Dolphin was destroyed by a hurricane in 1954, and was built back in phases. Over the years, it grew to 26,000 square feet, including a glass tower that fronts on Ocean Boulevard. At one time, people could climb a set of circular steps to the top of the tower, but access was closed in 2006 for safety purposes.

You can get almost anything at the Gay Dolphin: beach towels, t-shirts, hats, knick-knacks, ornaments, jewelry, pet toys, even a mermaid for your water garden. You can also get lost! With all of the different rooms on the various levels, it doesn’t take long to forget where the entry was, or even whether you need to go up or down to get there.

If you can’t find what you need at the Gay Dolphin, this area has many more tourist shops/traps, as well as restaurants, bars and activities.

Just a few blocks from the Gay Dolphin is the Myrtle Beach SkyWheel, an observation wheel, which I mistakenly called a Ferris where. There is a difference! The observation wheel is much larger than a typical Ferris wheel, plus it usually overlooks a scenic area – the beach in this case. The SkyWheel is almost 200 feet tall with 42 enclosed gondolas. Each gondola holds up to 6 people, Constructed in 2011, this particular wheel was the first of its kind in the US and the largest wheel in the country at that time.

Besides SkyWheel, there is another observation wheel at Broadway at the Beach, the Broadway 360 Observation Wheel. This one is smaller though, at only 150 feet. It is part of Broadway at the Beach’s amusement park. Drop your kids there, and head to the numerous restaurants, bars and shops. It’s a short step up from the attractions near the Gay Dolphin.

Broadway 360 Observation Wheel Myrtle Beach SkyWheel

Broadway at the Beach is also home to Ripley’s Aquarium of Myrtle Beach. Until now, I didn’t realize that Ripley’s had more than their Believe It or Not! museums. Ripley Entertainment bills itself as an entertainment and edutainment holding company. Although I was not familiar with the work “edutainment,” it apparently was coined by Walt Disney in the 1950s to denote entertainment that also educates. We’ve usually enjoyed visiting aquariums, so tried this one out on a hot afternoon, June 24.

This aquarium is definitely focused on children and families, and did a good job from that standpoint. However, it was pretty lame compared to many others we’ve seen. We spent a couple of hours there, and walked away underimpressed. Still, I would recommend it to families with children, or adults who are experiencing an aquarium for the first time.

Myrtle Beach has many great restaurants. Here are some that we enjoyed:

Donald’s Pancake House – we ate breakfast there three times! We recommend the Royal Pancakes topped with Nutella sauce, Pecan Waffle, or anything else on the menu. You can get healthy options as well.

Bumzz Beach Cafe – wait for your table in an adirondack chair near the beach. Dine inside or out, and enjoy the live music. We ate here twice. Their home-made chips were worth taking home.

42nd Street Bar & Grill – Heads up: It’s actually near 42nd Avenue, we overshot it looking for 42nd Street! It’s a reasonably priced steak and seafood restaurant. My scallops and white beans was delicious, as was Mark’s duck. The waiter went above and beyond to figure out how to make me a Vesper.

New York Prime – reservations highly recommended; this place had lines out the door every time we went by. It has the feel of an old style supper club. The food and service are outstanding, but you will pay for that.

Fire & Smoke – I think this was my favorite. The menu is creative; the Smoked Wild Boar and Free Range Bison is amazing. Who knew meatloaf could be a gourmet dish? Mark’s drink was smoked, then covered until presented at our table. There was live music, but not so loud as to overwhelm our conversation.

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Water, Water Everywhere! Congaree National Park

Posted on July 11, 2023 by kcbernick

Sunday, June 25, 2023

We took a three hour drive west to visit Congaree National Park. Named a national park just twenty years ago, its 26,000 plus acres preserve the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest left in our country. It’s one of the least visited national parks, with fewer than 150,000 visitors in 2018. This underappreciated gem was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1988. Maybe the lack of visitors will help to preserve that status.

The park is home to some very tall trees, including a 167-foot loblolly pine, a 157-foot sweetgum, a 135-foot American elm, and several other trees that are the tallest of their species. The average canopy height is over 100 feet.

Native Americans occupied this land as long ago as 9500 BCE and Europeans came in 1540. Settlers began clearing and developing the floodplain around 1740. Escaped slaves would find shelter here. A maroon settlement, made up of escaped slaves, once existed where the Congaree and Wateree Rivers met, not far from here. They used the rivers to travel, find food and supplies. The dense vegetation made it difficult for slave owners and catchers to pursue the escapees. After the Civil War, many freed slaves farmed in this area.

Logging began in the 1890s, almost destroying the remnants of old growth floodplain forest. Over the years, many people worked to protect this land that is home to many species of wildlife. Finally, on October 18, 1976, legislation was passed to create Congaree Swamp National Monument. Twelve years later, it was designated a wilderness area.

There are several hiking trails in the park, and a 2.4 mile boardwalk loop for easier access. Visitors can also canoe or kayak along Cedar Creek to see more of the park.

For most of the year, the park’s floodplain is mostly dry, but after a heavy rain, the low areas begin to fill up with water. Major flood events occur on average ten times per year. When that happens, hiking is not an option, and the boardwalk is mostly under water, as it was today. In spite of the flooding, the park is beautiful.

We spotted butterflies, dragonflies, damselflies, skinks, even a feral pig (an unwelcome resident.)

Although most of the boardwalk was closed, we did make it to Weston Lake, the largest oxbow lake within the park.

Congaree National Park, with its tall trees, provided some relief from a hot South Carolina summer day.

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Myrtle Beach, SC – Mini Golf Capitol of the US

Posted on July 9, 2023 by kcbernick

Maybe even the world! June, 2023

One of the first things we noticed after we arrived in Myrtle Beach on June 19 was the proliferation of mini golf courses, at least 50! The history of mini golf dates to the 1930s here, about the time that it was taking off all over the nation. Driving up and down Kings Highway (Hwy 17), there seem to be one or two every mile.

These are not the basic mini golf courses that some of us played on as children, with a few small obstacles and turns to navigate. The courses in Myrtle Beach feature some elaborate themes, such as African safari, shipwrecks, Jurassic Park, Hawaiian villages, and more. You can see waterfalls (water dyed an unnatural shade of turquoise), erupting volcanoes , dinosaurs, pirate ships, mermaids and sea monsters.

The US ProMiniGolf Association sponsors several pro tours throughout the country, including a Masters Tournament. They even have their own team USA Training Center located in North Myrtle Beach, South Carolina.

The other thing we noticed was the number of candy and ice cream shops along Kings Highway. Sugar Life Ice Cream & Candy was founded in 2015, and has three locations. You can mix and match candies by the pound, find sugar related clothing, and sample one (or more) of their 32 flavors of ice cream. We did stop in one day, and I couldn’t even finish my ice cream – I never thought I’d say that!

Even better was Kirk’s:1890 Ice Cream Parlor which usually had a line out the door. Mark said the cherry was almost as good as Cherry Garcia. I thought the mint chocolate with hot fudge was one of best! Kirk’s has been around since the 1970s, and has two locations. They were recently named one of the 100 best ice cream parlors in the US by Yelp, coming in at number 23.

We are staying on the beach, just a couple of blocks from Kirk’s, and walking distance from Ben & Jerry’s – heaven! Called the “Grand Strand,” it covers 60 miles of beach, from Little River at the North Carolina border to Wynah Bay, about 35 miles south of Myrtle Beach. The term “strand” refers to the shore, and “grand” to the extent of this particular shoreline. The sand is almost white, composed of quartz and calcite from shells, and is very soft, easy to walk on.

We’ll be here for two weeks. It appears to be a good spot to relax and enjoy the sun and sand.

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Big Sur

Posted on November 8, 2022 by kcbernick

Thursday, October 27, 2022

Today, we drove to Big Sur, located in the middle of the California coastline. When the Spanish were exploring this area, they referred to the coastal region south of Monterey as el país grande del sur, or the big country of the south. Over time, the Spanish and English terms were combined to create the name “Big Sur,” so Big South, I guess.

The area is sparsely populated. Drivers on California State Route 1 are treated to amazing views, unencumbered by houses or other structures. One notable exception is the Point Sur Naval Facility, most of which is now part of the California State Park system. The lighthouse and facilities are open to tourists on a limited basis. We’ll be gone before the next opportunity comes.

We arrived at our lodge in the late afternoon, where we spent some time getting to know the area, and plan our activities for tomorrow.

Friday, October, 28, 2022

Our lodging, The Big Sur Lodge, shares an entrance with the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. There are two other parks nearby, Andrew Molera State Park and Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. Stays at the lodge include a pass to any of these parks while we are here. Besides its excellent location, the lodge’s rooms are comfortable and the food is very good. There is a small market too, helpful, since there aren’t many shops in the area.

Keeping things simple, we opted to hike in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. There are several trails to choose from. Lengths vary from .5 – 23 miles, with elevation gains from 42 – 9583 feet. We opted for a couple of moderate trails, we’re not that young anymore. Valley View & Pfeiffer Falls combines a short walk to the falls, with a hike to the view.

While hiking, we kept our eyes open for the California Condor, which is often sighted along the Big Sur coast. We did see one large bird soaring above, but it was too far for us to determine if it was a condor or just a buzzard. The other large birds in attendance were turkeys, who apparently live on the lodge grounds. A tom took issue with Mark as he was walking by, and harassed him until he was well away.

After an easy walk through the woods, we came to Pfeiffer Falls, a narrow, 60 foot high waterfall that drops into the Pfeiffer-Redwood Creek, a tributary to the Big Sur River.

Then, the hiking began as we headed to the Valley View. It was a bit more strenuous, and the path was less smooth. We watched our step, did a little scrambling, and were well rewarded. From the vantage point at the top of the hike, we could see the Point Sur Naval Facility and the ocean. Did we see a condor? Don’t know.

And so, another lovely trip comes to an end, as we head back home soon, back to the dropping temperatures of the Minnesota fall.

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Pinnacles National Park

Posted on November 6, 2022 by kcbernick

Wednesday, October 26, 2022

Whenever we have the opportunity, we like to visit our nation’s parks. Pinnacles National Park is only about 75 miles from Paso Robles, east if the Salinas Valley, which made it nice day trip for us. The park is named for the pinnacles that are leftovers of the extinct Neenach Volcano that was originally located about 200 miles southeast of here, on the San Andrea Fault. The pinnacles are formed from andesite and rhyolite, both volcanic types of rock.

There are two entrances to the park, one on the east, and one on the west. It’s not possible to drive across the park from either entrance. The West Entrance is closer to Paso Robles, and gives visitors access to several trails. Normally, there is access to some caves, the Balconies Caves, but they were closed today due to vandalism that occurred in them recently. These are talus caves, formed when large chunks of rock fell and wedged into deep, narrow gorges.

The area, more than 26,000 acres, was first set aside as part of the Pinnacles Forest Reserve in 1906. It was named a National Monument in 1908. It attained National Park status over a century later, in 2013.

The park contains 32 trails of varying length and elevation gain. We hiked a couple of miles on a moderate trail. Our Minnesota legs are not used to hills, so we didn’t last as long as we had hoped to. Still, we were able to enjoy some great views today.

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Hearst Too Much!

Posted on November 5, 2022 by kcbernick

Tuesday, October 25, 2022

We signed up for a tour of the Hearst Castle in San Simeon. There were several options, ranging from 1 – 2 hours in length. We opted for the Julia Morgan tour, two hours long, because we thought it would focus more on the architect – Julia Morgan. Okay, she was mentioned a few times, but we didn’t learn much about her on the tour.

Julia Morgan initially graduated with a degree from Berkeley in civil engineering in 1894. Civil Engineers generally work on public projects, such as roads, dams, sewer systems and bridges. She became interested in architecture, and was encouraged by a visiting lecture to apply to École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Her application was denied because the École had never admitted a woman before. They relented, and she became the first woman to receive a certificate in architecture.

In 1904, Morgan became the first woman to be licensed as an architect in California. Over the years, Phoebe Hearst had been aware of Morgan’s work, which included libraries, churches, college buildings, and houses. She recommended Morgan to her son, William Randolph Hearst, when he decided to build a mansion in San Simeon. Julia Morgan worked on the project for 28 years, where she supervised nearly every aspect of construction at Hearst Castle, including the purchase of furnishings for the home.

On May 28, 2008, Julia Morgan was inducted into the California Hall of Fame. In 2014, she was awarded, posthumously, the AIA Gold Medal, the highest award of the American Institute of Architects She is the first female architect to receive this honor.

On our way, we stopped at a couple of places on the coast where elephant seals spend a few weeks at a time throughout the year. In the spring, adult seals come to the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery near San Simeon, where the females give birth, raise their pups, then mate again. They return to the sea, where the fertilized eggs begin to develop. After about seven months, the females return to give birth, and start the cycle again. The pups are weaned at one month, then begin traveling north at three months, as far as Alaska. As juveniles, they come back to the rookery in the fall for a few weeks.

The seals we observed today are juveniles of both sexes. They will stay a few weeks before returning to the sea, then come back in the spring as adults. While at sea, the seals are solitary, not even migrating together, but while on land, they socialize, spar with each other, and group together in the water and on the beach. They don’t eat or drink while at the rookery; their food is found far out at sea.

The Hearst Castle is registered as a National Historic Landmark. Built on a 40,000 acre estate purchased by Hearst’s father, George, it was an ongoing work that took 28 years to construct. There are 165 rooms (and we saw most of them), and 123 acres of gardens and pools. At one time, there was a large zoo on the grounds, with deer, antelope, camels, zebras, kangaroos, ostriches, and more. A few zebras are still in residence.

The Castle is decorated with artwork and furnishings from around the world. Hearst wanted the best things that he could secure for the house: paintings, sculptures, tapestries, vases, and much, much more. Truly, it was excessive.

Many famous people were entertained there: Clark Gable, Winston Churchill, Charles Lindbergh, Calvin Coolidge were among the glitterati.

We were overwhelmed and exhausted by the end of the tour.

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A Mellow Day

Posted on November 3, 2022 by kcbernick

Monday, October 24, 2022

We are staying at a beautiful resort, Allegretto Vineyard Resort, located on the east edge of Paso Robles. One thing that is unique to Allegretto is that it is actually set next to its own vineyard and fruit orchards. Wanting to know more about this place, we booked a guided tour this morning.

Our guide explained that the owner wanted to create an environment that encourages harmony, love of music and inner growth. The layout and design were inspired by Italian architecture, and certainly it does remind us of Old World elegance. It was one of the most peaceful places we have ever stayed at, plenty of areas to sit and enjoy the surroundings with a book, glass of wine, or one’s own thoughts.

They try to keep the twenty acres orchards and vineyards as natural as possible, watering in accord with the weather, using llamas and goats to tend the weeds and overgrowth as well as provide natural fertilizer.

Artwork from around the world graces the interior and exterior, all placed to encourage serenity. The inner atrium is laid out in the design of a cello, the owner’s favorite instrument.

I was especially delighted by the chandelier in the entryway. Using LED light technology, it morphed from one color to another.

Allegretto grows several varieties of grape here, and at another vineyard on the west side of town, marketing its own wines to the public, such as Pinot Noir, Tannat, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec. Our tour ended with a wine tasting, where we sampled most of these. Then, we spent the afternoon doing what Allegretto was designed for – relaxing and enjoying our environment.

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Exploring the California Coast, and Seeing the Light

Posted on November 2, 2022 by kcbernick

Sunday, October 23, 2022

It’s hard for us to sit still. We enjoy exploring the communities wherever we are. This morning, we drove south to San Luis Obispo, home to Bubblegum Alley. The alley, about 5 feet wide, and 15 feet long, is located in downtown San Luis Obispo. No one is sure when the custom started, after WWII, in the 1950’s, but people have been adding their gum to the walls lining the alley for at least 70 years. Needless to say, that’s a large accumulation of gum. Shop owners in the area haven’t been very supported, and attempts have been made a few times to clean it up. However, it continues to attract tourists like us, who add our contributions to the wall.

Of two other attractions we checked was the Mission San Luis Obispo, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. We peeked inside, very respectfully, as Sunday Mass was being celebrated at the time.

The very first motel in the world was built in San Luis Obispo. The Motel Inn was built in 1925, as a convenience for a new type of traveler, the automobile driver. At that time, most drivers could only go about 40 miles per day, and architect/developer named Arthur Heineman saw an opportunity. He envisioned a series of small motor hotels, spaced about 40 miles apart to accommodate those drivers. They would be located near main roads, and included parking spaces and even some garages for the overnight guests. Heineman coined the term, motel, originally Mo-Tel, a portmanteau of the words motor and hotel.

This Motel Inn continued operating until 1991, and most of the buildings were later taken down. The remaining building was used as administrative space for the nearby Apple Farm Inn, but as of today, it is empty. Fencing surrounds the building now, but there has been talk of resurrecting the old motel.

Next, we headed west to Morro Bay, where we enjoyed ice cream and window shopping before driving out to Morro Rock, a volcanic plug that is about 576 feet tall. It’s been used for years as a navigational landmark. The surrounding beach is enjoyed by humans, squirrels, seals, sea lions and several species of birds. The waves were good enough for a few surfers to be out today.

The highlight of the day was back in Paso Robles, just a few miles from our lodging. Sensorio features two light and color installations by Bruce Munro, a British artist who uses the surrounding environment and and fiber optics to create his designs. We had seen one of his exhibits in Minnesota a few years ago, and were excited to see this one, which was much larger.

We arrived shortly before sunset, and watched as the lights came up. Almost 60,000 stemmed spheres covered the 15 acre rolling field. In the main installation, called “The Field of Lights,” the lights continually change color, creating a kind of fairy land. Visitors walk on paths through the lights.

A newer addition, called “Light Towers,” includes 69 towers of wine bottles, filled with lights. The changing colors are accompanied by music, very dramatic when viewed and heard in the dark. The music tonight was from Ladysmith Black Mambazo, a South African male acapella singing group. They came to fame after being featured on Paul Simon’s “Graceland” album. We saw them perform live in Minneapolis several years ago, a great show.

There was a small field of what looked like jellyfish near the towers. There were white lights that moved with the wind, similar to the way jellyfish move in the sea.

A beautiful day followed by an even more beautiful evening.

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Santa Cruz to Salinas

Posted on October 31, 2022 by kcbernick

Saturday, October 22, 2022

We flew into San Jose last night, planning to head to Paso Robles today. We could have driven the direct route, but decided to go part of the way via the Pacific Coast. Santa Cruz has a Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning, and we always enjoy seeing what’s available at these local markets.

There was lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, breads, coffee and pastries, and some very interesting gourds. It’s a fairly small venue, but the displays were very appealing.

Nearby Natural Bridges State Beach is home to a natural preserve for butterflies that overwinter there each year. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explore the area today. We did enjoy the natural bridges in the bay, and the waves that broke against the rocks and shore of the bay.

Salinas was home to author John Steinbeck as a boy. He wrote 33 books, fiction, non-fiction, memoirs and poetry. Many were set in the Salinas Valley. Several books were adapted for movies or plays, such as East of Eden, Of Mice and Men and The Grapes of Wrath. His boyhood home is now a restaurant near the downtown area.

The National Steinbeck Center tells the story of Steinbeck’s life and legacy. There are sculptures of some of the characters that peopled his novels, like the Joads of The Grapes of Wrath, and Woody Guthrie, who wrote a song based on the book: The Ballad of Tom Joad.

The Center is full of quotes from Steinbeck’s books, tributes to others who were influenced by him, and artifacts from his life including the camper/truck he used to travel cross-country with his dog, Travels With Charley.

After being nominated eight times, John Steinbeck received the Pulitzer Prize in 1938 for Grapes of Wrath, and the Nobel Prize in 1962, six years before his death in 1968. There was controversy about the Nobel, with many feeling that his recent works were not as good as what he had written in the past, that his best works were behind him. He, himself, doubted his worthiness, but he was grateful nonetheless. Fifty years after the Nobel was awarded, it was revealed that the committee through he was the best of a bad lot of nominees.

I especially appreciate the following Steinbeck quote:

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