Claude Monet’s Home

Posted on October 15, 2015 by kcbernick

Wednesday, October 14

Very early (very, very early) this morning, 8am here, but 1am back home, we boarded a bus bound for Giverny to visit Claude Monet’s home. Monet purchased a home and lands here in 1890 so that he could create the magnificent gardens he wanted to paint. His home was painted green and pink. He wanted to be surrounded by color. Several American impressionists settled in Giverny in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to work here.

The home was left to the Académie des Beaux-Arts in 1966 by Monet’s son, and became a museum in 1980, maintained by the Foundation Claude Monet. The gardens have been replanted as they were during his time here. Maintaining these gardens requires 300,000 plantings each year.

We walked through the water garden, with its stand of bamboo and then past the water lily pond and Japanese bridge, made famous by over 200 Monet paintings.

We also toured his home and studio. Monet collected Japanese engravings, and they are displayed in several rooms.

The town of Giverny is small, about 900 inhabitants, but full of flowers. It was a treat to walk through.

Back to the boat around noon for a much needed nap. We are enjoying the ride down the river, and spent a little time on top, although it is pretty chilly. Late afternoon, we passed by the Château de La Roche-Guyon which is built into chalk cliffs, with a 250 step staircase carved into the hill from the dungeon to the chateau. During WWII, Rommel took it over for his temporary residence.

Meals on board the ship are delicious so far. It’s hard to stop, but we need to get to bed and rest up before tomorrow’s excursions.

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Towering Over Paris

Posted on October 14, 2015 by kcbernick

Tuesday, October 13

We stayed at the Hilton Opera in Paris, located just a few blocks from the Paris Opera House. Our room was very comfortable, and the location was convenient to shopping, banking, eating and entertainment. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to take advantage of much of that.

Lobby at Hilton Paris

Lobby at Hilton Paris

We heard that the views, both inside and out, were beautiful at the Galleries Lafayette, so we walked there after breakfast. The Galleries Lafayette here is the flagship store for a department store with locations around the world. The original owner started in 1816 as a small haberdasher, and continued to add space. This store is 10 stories of upscale shopping that appears to cover several blocks.

A glass and steel dome was added in 1912, and the rooftop is open to the public. The atrium looks like the interior of an opera or theater house.

The views were indeed amazing. Seating is provided for visitors, and there is a small café and a coffee kiosk. Behind the glass dome is a wall of hydroponically grown plants that are part of an initiative to find innovative ways to grow vegetables and fruits in the city. It’s called “Paris Under the Strawberry.”

It was then time to meet up with our cruise director and take our first tour to the Eiffel Tower. The tower stands 986 feet, and has three floors. We took the elevator to the second floor, about 400 feet up, where we were able to see more magnificent views. From there, we walked down to the first floor, at about 200 feet, where a glass floor was added last year.

We boarded our boat, Avalon Creativity, and left the city early so were not able to see the sparkling lights that were added to celebrate the Millennium. These lights are on for five minutes every hour, but are not very visible during the day. We should be able to enjoy them when we return at the end of our cruise.

We left early because there have been problems with one of the six locks we will be going through. As a result, traffic has been building up, and the captain wanted to have more time to wait our turn. The ships were built to be as wide as possible and still be able to negotiate all of the locks. When we went through one this evening, we could easily have touched the wall.

Mark's image in our door as he tries to get photo of lock wall.

Mark’s image in our door as he tries to get photo of lock wall.

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Eye on the World

Posted on October 14, 2015 by kcbernick

Monday, October 12

Our first priority (OK, my first priority) for the day was The London Eye. Built to commemorate the New Millennium, this Ferris Wheel stands just under 400 feet, and carried its first passengers on February 1, 2000. It is Europe’s tallest Ferris Wheel, and takes 30 minutes for a full rotation. Approximately 3.75 million passengers ride each year, and we are part of the total for 2015. Yay!!

Then, we took a boat ride on the Thames from The London Eye to The Tower of London. It was pretty chilly today, and we both agreed that we didn’t want to go any further. We were able to sight some great sites on the river (had to double check the appropriate spellings before posting, and don’t tell me I was wrong because I don’t care.)

Some of London’s buildings have interesting profiles, and Londoners love to give them nicknames. In fact, when leaving later today, I was reading The Spectator Magazine which had a delightful cartoon about “The evolving London skyline.” I hope it amuses you as much as it did me.

Next, we visited Kensington Palace located in Kensington Park. I really wanted to see the dresses … in case I wanted to buy one, of course. There were exhibits for Queen Elizabeth’s dresses, Princess Diana’s dresses, and Queen Victoria’s as well. There were some beautiful gardens as well, but they weren’t dresses, so I skipped them.

In the afternoon, we took the Eurail to Paris through the Chunnel, a 31 mile rail tunnel linking the United Kingdom with France. It was fast, with speeds about 125 mph and more, but bumpy. There was certainly more space than on an airplane, but I still prefer flying. We arrived in Paris around 6:00 pm, and then met our friends, Jan and Brian for a bite. On the way, we walked by the Galleries Lafayette, a huge department store, which I wish I could explore further. The lighting above the sidewalks includes flowers among the lights – beautiful.

Over the street at Galleries Lafayette, Paris

Over the street at Galleries Lafayette, Paris

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Thrilled to be in London

Posted on October 13, 2015 by kcbernick

Sunday, October 11

We took a long cab ride to the Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Mark especially wanted to see the Temperate House to see what could be grown in this environment. Unfortunately, this building is closed until 2016 due to renovation. There was plenty else to see.

We took a bus ride around the gardens since we had so little time. The gardens comprise about 350 acres, with over 14,000 trees representing over 2,000 species. Among the areas we could see were the Holly Walk, Japanese Garden, Chinese Pagoda, and much more. Kew was founded in 1759 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003.

We then visited the Palm House, which was like an indoor rain forest. It feels good after being out in the chilly London air. We could view the many plants from floor level, or from an elevated walkway around the main area. There is also a marine section below ground.

Then to the Water Lily House, where there were some of the largest lily pads we’ve ever seen – the Santa Cruz Water Lily – up to 5 feet or more in diameter. These pads were designed to support their huge size, with ribs on the underside. The flower is up to 10 inches in diameter and blooms for two days.

Water Lily House

Water Lily House

We still had a little time, so we also visited the Princess of Wales Conservatory, which houses many desert plants.

We then took a Hop On Hop Off bus for a tour of the downtown and historic areas. There are so many tour bus companies in London, and they are all going to the same places. It’s difficult sometimes to see the attractions because we have to look over the heads of others. We went by the Tower of London, Elizabeth Tower (which houses the bell known as Big Ben), Westminster Abbey, the London Eye,  among others (so we were told.) Oh well, we did get some history along the way.

Had dinner at Jamie Oliver’s Diner, which was mostly good… Why must they put cilantro on everything??? It ought to come with a warning label for those of us to whom it tastes metallic and/or like soap.

Then, on to see “Thriller Live” at the Lyric Theatre. It was a good show, with about 30 songs, well choreographed and very energetic. Each of the songs was performed by one of four very talented singers, including one woman. She could hit those high notes as well as the male performers did.

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Gardens of London

Posted on October 11, 2015 by kcbernick

Friday, October 9

Mark and I left Minneapolis around 11:00 pm, headed for London Heathrow. The flight was delayed about an hour because of mechanical difficulties. We’ll spend a couple of days in London, and then leave for Paris via The Chunnel.

Saturday, October 10

After a few hours of sleep, we were roused around 5:30 am our time, 11:30 am London time. Aside from being late, the flight was mostly uneventful. We did experience some choppiness when flying over the eastern US, where it’s been rainy.

We arrived at our hotel a little before 3:00,  a Doubletree near Hyde Park, actually across from Kensington Gardens. Original plans were to go to Kew Gardens this afternoon, and do the London Eye tonight. Exhaustion and time constraints convinced us to keep it easy, so we walked to the Notting Hill neighborhood and had a bite to eat at Ruby Jean’s Diner. A couple sandwiches and ginger beers improved our energy level, and we explored the local area.

The streets are quite busy, lots of people out and about on a Saturday evening. Most of the shops nearby seem to cater to the tourist – lots of “things and stuff” stores – inexpensive and cheap trinkets, second-hand clothing, “going out of business” sales, and cafes. It’s great for people watching.

We enjoyed seeing how people create green space around their homes. Yards are small, but laid out beautifully with shrubs and flowering plants.

We then walked through Kensington Gardens for a while. This place will be very busy tomorrow with the Royal Parks Half Marathon, which will go through Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, The Green Park and St. James Park. The event raises money for the Royal Parks Foundation and other charities.

We walked by the Round Pond where there were many swans, along with geese and ducks. The swans are especially impressive. They are not afraid of humans, and came up to us hoping to be fed. Just like the geese back home in Minnesota.

The 2015 Rugby World Cup is being hosted by England at Twickenham Stadium. There are posters everywhere announcing the fact. When we walked by our hotel this evening, we saw several men and boys watching the game through the windows of the hotel lounge. Today’s game was Australia vs Wales. Australia won 15-6.

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Next we walked to Queensway, a street celebrating many nations and cultures, we heard dozens of languages. We saw Thai, Russian, Indian, Italian, Persian, Chinese and more, bars, restaurants, groceries and shops, even a hookah bar. These were interspersed with McDonald’s, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Subway, Starbucks and other US restaurants.

It’s been a full day (day and a half).

Posted in Europe, Kensington Gardens, London, Ruby Jean's Diner | 1 Comment

Blisters on the Soles of Her Feet

Posted on September 30, 2015 by kcbernick

Sunday, September 28

It’s our last day in Chicago. We gathered for an early breakfast because Mary S had to leave on a 10 am flight. It was such a treat to have her here with us. She moved away about 25 years ago, and last joined us for our annual “Opener” weekend twelve years ago, but she will always be a member of our book group.

My son, Sean, had suggested that I visit the Rookery Building, located near the Willis Tower. I had tried to go in a couple of days ago, but was deterred by the signage saying that it was not open to visitors. Sean suggested simply going into one of the shops there, so I headed back there this morning. I did visit one of the shops, and found a few items I couldn’t live without.

I went into the glass-ceilinged lobby, which was beautiful, but really wanted to see more of the staircase. I put on my blinders and walked past all of the signs instructing visitors to stay out, and snagged a few photos before being chased down by the guard. It would be worthwhile to take a guided tour of the building if I come back.

The building was designed by John Wellborn Root and Daniel Burnham, of the firm Birnham & Root, who designed many Chicago buildings. It was  completed in 1888, replacing a ramshackle City Hall that had been hastily built after the great fire of 1871. The word, rookery, was applied to that City Hall building. The name may also have referred to the raucous nature of city politics at the time. Some rumors held that crows lived in the previous building’s walls. In any case, the current building’s exterior sports open-mouthed crows (or rooks) that are reminiscent of the squawking of corrupt city officials.

Frank Lloyd Wright redesigned the lobby in 1907, hiding the original copper-plated ironwork with marble. His design included new staircase railings, decorative urns and new light fixtures.

The building was restored in 1988, combining the work of Root and Wright, and adding a 12th floor.

On the way back to my hotel, I walked part of the Chicago RiverWalk. Several boat tours depart from landings along the route, and there are a few restaurants as well. It’s a nice alternative to walking along the busy streets above.

The Heald Monument, above, depicts George Washington, flanked on his right by Robert Morris, and on his left by Haym Salomon, two financiers of the Revolutionary War. The quote is from Washington: “The government of the United States which gives to bigotry no sanction to persecution no assistance requires only that they who live under its protection should demean themselves as good citizens in giving it in all occasions their effectual support.”

I reached the Knickerbocker in time to reconvene with my fellow travelers and travel to the airport for our 3:00 flight. It was a wonderful weekend, and discussions were already underway to plan another group trip in two years. I’m keeping my fingers crossed!

I’ve calculated that, during these four days, I walked over 94,000 steps, covering almost 40 miles. Only two blisters, though!

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My Kind of Town

Posted on September 30, 2015 by kcbernick

Sunday, September 27

After breakfast, several of us headed to the lake shore for a short walk. In the distance, we could see the Ferris wheel at Navy Pier. This Ferris wheel was installed in 1995, and measures 150 feet in height. Tomorrow, it will be dismantled to make way for a larger (about 50 feet taller), high tech wheel with 42 gondolas. This new wheel will be installed as part of Navy Pier’s centennial celebration. It was free to ride this weekend, and an estimated 30,000 people rode. To accommodate the many visitors, it remained open overnight on Saturday.

The original Ferris wheel, which measured 264 feet, was named for George Washington Gale Ferris, Jr., was designed and constructed for the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago at Jackson Park, about 9 miles south of Navy Pier.

Second to last day of operation

Second to last day of operation

Some of the group went back to the Art Institute, and others visited the Museum of Contemporary Art, another place where I could spend more time.

The gift shop was a hit as well. Among our purchases were purses, jewelry, cards, hats, and sets of “hands.” These were finger “puppets,” and Donna demonstrated one potential use for them.

Next stop was a designer consignment shop. No one had any luck there. Then, lunch at Bijans Bistro, followed by more exploring and/or shopping.

The city does a beautiful job of incorporating green spaces and art into the downtown landscape. It’s a welcoming environment where you can see people of all hues and hear languages from around the world.

Dinner tonight was at Bistronomic, located just a couple of blocks from the hotel. Delicious meal, once again. I don’t think there were any disappointing meals during this trip. I was exhausted by the end of this day.

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Sky High Architecture

Posted on September 27, 2015 by kcbernick

Saturday, September 26

This morning, most of us hiked down to Navy Pier to take an Architectural River Tour with Shoreline Sightseeing. It was a fabulous day for this tour, as it was warm and sunny. Our docent was well informed and interesting. He talked about the various eras of style and pointed out examples of each, from beaux arts to art deco to modern and post modern. Sure wish I could remember all of what I heard!

There’s a park, the Nicholas J. Melas Centennial Plaza, near the end of our ride on the Chicago River with a fountain that shoots out across the river for about 5 minutes every hour. Thankfully, we didn’t cruise under it since it sprays river water. Pretty to look at, not to wear.

Next, we walked to Eataly, a large deli/Italian grocery with 9 restaurants on site. This is a must for serious foodies. It does seem like we are doing a lot of eating on this trip. I hope the walking makes up for it. Several of us had pizzas – authentic Italian style pizzas like what we’ve eaten in Italy – accompanied by wine, of course.

We went different directions after lunch. I headed to Willis Tower to experience the view from the 103rd floor, from The Ledge, a glass skydeck. No one else was interested in this. I love them all dearly, but they are wimps to be sure. I waited in line for almost 90 minutes, along with several hundred other hot and sweaty people. I should have gotten the fast pass. Oh well, it was worth it,  just to test my fortitude. I only spent a few minutes on the ledge, long enough to take a couple of photos.

After all, it was almost time to go to dinner!

On the way back to the hotel, I walked past the Tribune Building. Built in 1922-1925, it  incorporated 120 stones from structures around the world, including the Parthenon, the pyramids, and the Alamo, among others.

Dinner was at Francesca’s on Chestnut, just a couple of blocks from our hotel. Delicious!

Another beautiful day, full of exploration and adventure with my dearest friends.

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Reflections on Chicago

Posted on September 26, 2015 by kcbernick

Friday, September 25

Seven of us left from Minneapolis at 9 am, and arrived in Chicago around 10:25, then headed to the Knickerbocker Hotel, located near the Water Tower. This historic hotel is strategically located at one end of the Magnificent Mile, close to the Lake Michigan waterfront and Navy Pier.

After settling in, we went to Nico Osteria for a delicious lunch.

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Our eighth member, Mary S, arrived from Detroit at 1:00. We picked her up and headed to the Art Institute of Chicago for a few hours. The weather is fabulous and there were many people walking outside. We spent a couple of hours there, and I could easily spend a few more.

On our walk back, we stopped at Millennium Park to enjoy the attractions there, including The Bean, a reflective sculpture, and the largest of four giant heads, created by Jaume Plensa. Next, we had a light dinner at Howells & Hood in the Chicago Tribune Building. Then, back to our hotel to rest up for tomorrow.

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Three Decades of Friendship

Posted on September 24, 2015 by kcbernick

Thursday, September 24

I’m looking forward to a weekend in Chicago with seven dear friends. In October, 1985, I placed an ad in the FEW (Forum of Executive Women) newsletter, with the intention of starting a book group. I was looking for some intellectual stimulation, as well as increasing my friendship base. Both goals have been met and exceeded.

From the first meeting, I have been on a journey in which I’ve been introduced to a wide variety of books, fiction and nonfiction, history and biography. I might never have read many of them otherwise. I’m very grateful to my book group for expanding my literary horizons. Members have come and gone, but none have left my heart.

Traveling companions on this trip are: Sally Baumgartner, Debra Carlson, Linda Hanson, Mary Harlander-Locke, Cindy Johnson, Mary Salk, Donna Walberg,

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