Saturday, January 12, 2019
We had to leave the hotel in Quito at 5:30 this morning to catch a flight to our next destination. We arrived here in the dark and we are leaving in the dark. When we reached Guayaquil airport, we needed to purchase a tourist registration card. The Immigration Department here controls the number of tourists that may visit the islands on any given day.
The Galápagos Islands (official name Archipiélago de Colón) is a volcanic archipelago with 19 islands. The islands and surrounding marine reserve are located at the confluence of three ocean currents. They are isolated from other bodies of land, so that animal life has evolved in ways that are particularly adapted to their environment, different from their relatives elsewhere.
The Galápagos Islands are best known as the inspiration for Charles Darwin’s theory of natural selection. As a young man, he visited in 1835 to study the volcanic formations. While here, he was struck by how various species of bird and animal differed greatly from island to island.
The islands have been visited by many peoples, but there is no evidence of long-term occupation until the 1800’s. Ecuador annexed the Galápagos Islands in 1832, naming them the Archipelago of Ecuador. They were settled soon after by some artisans and farmers from the mainland. In the late 1800s, a few attempts were made to establish sugar cane plantations on San Cristóbal Island and Isabela Island. Over the next few decades, settlers arrived from Europe and the United States as well.
In the early 1900s, Ecuador attempted to sell the islands to raise cash. The US had expressed interest in buying them for military use, as they were strategically close to the Panama Canal, but they did not. However, the US was permitted to establish a naval base on Baltra Island during WWII. After the war, the facilities were given to the Ecuadoran government, which then established their own military base.
A large part (97.5%) of the Islands was designated a national park in 1959. The population at that time was less than 2,000 people. by 2010, the number had increased to over 25,000, many of them fishermen and farmers, who have resisted some of the restrictions imposed by the park service. There have been violent confrontations between some of the locals and the park service in the 1990s and 2000s. Illegal fishing within the reserve is a serious problem.
In 1978, UNESCO recognized the Islands as a World Heritage Site; in 1986, 27,000 square miles of ocean around the islands was a marine reserve; and in 1990, the archipelago became a whale sanctuary.
There are only about 500 native and endemic plant species here. Over the years, another 700 have been introduced, whether accidental or intentional, and they are taking over and eliminating the native species. Goats, dogs, pigs, rats, cats, mice, etc. have also been brought here, and they too are wreaking havoc on the native species on animals and plants.
We reached Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal Island, the capital city of the Galápagos Islands, in the late morning. Here we were greeted by several sea lions and iguanas, while we waited to be transferred by Zodiacs to our ship, the National Geographic Endeavour II. There are 87 passengers aboard, along with 63 staff (biologists, guides, physician and crew).
After orientation, safety briefing and lunch, we returned to town to visit a local interpretation center at the foot of Cerro Tijeretas (Frigate Bird Hill), then took a short hike to observe the natural vegetation and wildlife (including a few swimmers below the hill). There were lots of small iguanas, several bird species, and some carpenter bees along the way.
It was a vigorous walk. There are over 80 tourist ships that operate within the islands. The government regulates which island each of those ships can visit each day. They also assign specific times that the ship’s tour groups can visit each of the sites. As a result, our time is short in any one spot. Also, the sun rises around 6:00am and sets around 6:00pm, another constraint on our time. All parks must be vacated by sunset.
I’m sure there are many other options available, including apps for your smartphone. I created a template, which gets revised regularly, based on our experiences. I’ve added sections for international travel, for cold and hot weather climates, and for vacation rentals or timeshares. I can pick and choose which categories to include.
medications, toiletries, electronics and their respective chargers, power adapters, passports, backpacks, binoculars, toothbrushes, and so on. I even list the clothing we bring, just in case our luggage gets lost.
travel that can test the bounds of that love. For us, the most challenging part of any trip is getting there, especially if air travel is involved. Once we’re at our destination, we can relax and begin enjoying each other’s company again. We recently discussed this, with the goal of making air travel less onerous. Here are some of the things that cause the most stress for one or the other, or both, of us, plus the steps we take to reduce that stress:
Crowds: We both hate them, but I can navigate them better, so I take charge and find the paths of least resistance. My husband finds this more challenging, so we hold hands to be sure we don’t lose each other as I weave my way through. It may not reduce the amount of the stress, but it does reduce the duration.
bags so we know when they’ve hit baggage claim). If the delay is weather-related, the airline has no obligation to provide meal or hotel vouchers. If the delay is mechanical, they may provide vouchers, but you probably have to ask for them. Ask the gate agent for regular updates, but be aware that he/she might not really know what’s going on or how long it will take. If you can get on an alternative flight, take it! Just remember that people with connecting flights will get priority. The airline may have a rule regarding how long to wait before bringing in another airplane (ask the gate agent about this). We were on a flight recently that was delayed for eight hours before the airline decided to bring in another plane. Do be patient and polite with the gate agent. It’s not his/her fault that the flight is delayed. If you want to be treated with respect and consideration, remember it’s a two-way street.
bottle to give them when the airplane is climbing or beginning its landing procedure. Sucking on the bottle will help your baby’s ears equalize, reducing any discomfort (plus it keeps baby hydrated). A pacifier can work well too. For children over age 3, bring some chewing gum.
So Many Exciting and Beautiful Places! 